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Avião
SECRETS SERVICE
№ 10Travel · Photo · Stories
Portugal · Sky

Avião,
skies over the Tagus

Where the river meets the ocean, the sky belongs to more than gulls. Small aviation in Portugal — flight schools, private aircraft, and the country that first flew across the South Atlantic.

On the cover: a flight school at Cascais Airport · Lomography film

1922The first flight across the South Atlantic
280 daysWhy Europe’s pilots come here to train
6 framesLomography film

Portugal gave the world its greatest navigators. Perhaps that is why the sky here is conquered with the same audacity that once conquered the ocean.

Secrets Service · Avião
Chapter I · A Nation of Pilots
I

The sky that
chose Portugal

Sun nearly all year, a gentle Atlantic wind and open skies — the perfect classroom for future pilots.

Few people associate Portugal with aviation — everyone thinks of Lisbon, fado, port wine. Yet the country runs one of the most developed networks of flight schools in southern Europe. The climate is nearly ideal for training: around 280 sunny days a year, gentle Atlantic winds, open skies without crowded air corridors.

Schools cluster around small airfields — Cascais, Évora, Ponte de Sor. Trainee pilots come not only from Portugal but from the UK, Germany and the Nordic countries — places with too many rainy days to log the hours a licence requires. Here you can take to the air almost every day.

Flight school
Flight school. Cascais Airport · Lomography film
Airfield
Airfield. Cascais Airport · Lomography film
Take-off
Take-off. Cascais Airport · Lomography film
Chapter II · Airshows over the Tagus
II

Where the river
meets the ocean

The mouth of the Tagus is a natural amphitheatre: water, hills and a sky handed over to engines for a few minutes.

Where the Tagus flows into the Atlantic — by the 25 de Abril Bridge and the statue of Christ the King — the sky is now and then handed over to aircraft. Aerobatic planes trace figures right above the water, against a city that watches from its hills.

This is no accidental venue. The mouth of the Tagus — wide, open, free of tall buildings along its banks — forms a natural amphitheatre. Spectators gather on the Belém waterfront, by the bridge, on the hills of Alfama. The sound of the engines bounces off the water and the hills and carries for kilometres.

Children sit on their parents’ shoulders. Boats on the river stop to keep clear. For a few minutes the sky over Lisbon belongs to engines alone.

Chapter III · The Tale of the First Crossing
III

The aircraft that
crossed the Atlantic

1922: two naval officers, a seaplane and a sextant invented by one of them.

Portugal has a special reason to be proud of its aviation. In 1922 two Portuguese naval officers, Sacadura Cabral and Gago Coutinho, made the first flight in history across the South Atlantic — from Lisbon to Rio de Janeiro. In a Fairey III seaplane, without modern navigation, finding their way by the sun and stars with a sextant Coutinho had invented himself.

The journey took almost three months: twice their aircraft could fly no further and had to be replaced. But they made it. In Lisbon this is still a national legend — a monument to the airmen stands in Belém, next to the Monument to the Discoveries, where Vasco da Gama and Henry the Navigator are carved in stone. A logical line: first the seas were opened, then the sky.

Flight school
Flight school. Cascais Airport · Lomography film
When you watch a small aircraft circling over the Tagus, you see more than a machine. You see a country for which the horizon was always an invitation, never a boundary.
Secrets Service · Avião
Airfield
Airfield. Cascais Airport · Lomography film
Fact · History
1922
first South Atlantic flight

Sacadura Cabral and Gago Coutinho were the first to cross the South Atlantic by air — from Lisbon to Rio, in a seaplane, by the sun and stars.

Fact · Climate
280+
sunny days a year

That is why pilots from across Northern Europe come to train in Portugal — there is almost always a day fit for flying.

Fact · Aero Club
1909
Aeroclube de Portugal founded

One of the oldest aero clubs in the world — just six years after the Wright brothers’ first flight.

Practical · Aviation in Portugal

What to know

Airshows and open days of the Portuguese Air Force are announced on the Força Aérea Portuguesa website. When a display is held over the Tagus, the best viewing points are the waterfront by the Monument to the Discoveries, the area around the 25 de Abril Bridge and the hills of Alfama.

If you would like to fly yourself, flight schools in Cascais and Évora offer short introductory flights with an instructor — no licence required. It is one of the most unusual ways to see Lisbon and the coast: quite literally from a bird’s-eye view.

Lisbon has looked out to sea for five centuries. Now it looks to the sky too — with the same persistence that once opened new worlds.

Secrets Service · Avião
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